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I am not an expert cruiser, but I have been on a few ships, small and large. My first cruise was to Jamaica on a small and very old ship. It was fun, but rustic. Second was Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas, the biggest liner at the time and over the top with 18 decks. Regent Seven Seas Explorer, which claims to be “the most luxurious ship ever built” wowed with its marble bathrooms. My most recent voyage was aboard the Nieuw Amsterdam and I must say I liked it the best.
Why? Understated elegance, superb dining, and art collection worth $3 million.My favorite piece was Andy Warhol’s Queen Ntombi Twala.
Plus there were activities such as digital workshops, cooking with American’s Test Kitchen, BBC Natural Earth films, and entertainment provided by Lincoln Center Stage chamber music, Billboard Onboard and B.B. King’s Blues Club.
Graceful and midsized, the ship reflected the days when cruises were serene and glamourous and patrons were the cream of society. Well, I can dream. But you really did need to dress for dinner. And the food was top notch.

Our first shore trip was to Half Moon Cay, a private island in the Bahamas owned by Holland America.There were many activities to chose from including an eco bicycle tour, swimming with stingrays, horseback riding, jet skiing and hiking. Not to mention just lounging on the beach with a creamy pinacolada.
Our other shore trip was to Nassau, which offered history, chocolate, rum, feeding tropical birds and the highlight for me? Flamingos!

At the start of the summer I had the pleasure to go to a collection of islands in the Gulf of St. Lawrence and I blogged about it here. In August, my story on the Iles de la Madeleine ran in Culture Magazin. I hope you enjoy. Bon appetite!

I love a pow wow and the Grand River Champion of Champions Pow Wow is one of the best. Held the fourth weekend of July outside of Brantford, Ont., at the Chiefswood Tent & Trailer Park on Six Nations land, it’s an amazing celebration of Indigenous culture. Participants come from all over North America to compete for prize money in dancing and drumming categories.
Competitors can place first, second, third or four in a variety of style categories. They collect points for their wins throughout the weekend and on Sunday the dancer with the most points is named the Champion of Champions.
The eye-popping colours and different styles I saw were jaw dropping. Dancers invest thousands of dollars and spend years personalizing their regalia (never call it a costume!). Deer hide and moose hide, complicated beading, feathers, and animal skins make each ensemble unique, reflecting clans and First Nation affiliations.
There are six main style of dance done at this pow wow: men’s and women’s traditional dances; men’s and women’s medicine dances (men’s grass and women’s jingle); and men’s fancy feather and women’s fancy shawl dances. The age groupings are golden age (50+), adult, teen, kids and tiny tots.
Looking in my program, I found explanations of each dance style. Men’s Traditional is about telling a story, typically of a hunt, battle or certain victory. Crouching, tracking, aiming and running about are common moves. Moving toward the centre of the circle, dancers tap once on the pole or shout out to represent victory over an enemy or success in a hunt. Women’s Traditional features something called scrubbing. Standing in one place, dancers bounce in time with the drum, snapping the fringes of their regalia. In the walking style, dancers travel around the circle taking small steps and doing deep knee bends. The object is to look smooth, controlled and elegant. Men’s Grass is a medicine dance with fluid, swaying motions representing a sense of balance with nature. Women’s Jingle is a healing dance of the Anishinabek people of Whitefish Bay. A young girl was ill and one of the men had a dream with the dresses, dances and songs that could make her well. The women followed his instructions, dancing around the girl who by the end had recovered and joined them. Jingle dancers always keep one foot touching the ground to show the connection with the earth. Men’s Fancy Feather is a spectator favourite with zingy colours and fluffy feather bustles. Fast and furious, it is filled with tricky footwork and acrobatic movements. Cartwheels, backflips and the splits are common. Women’s Fancy Shawl (my favourite) is a more feminine version of the Men’s Fancy Feather dance. Women spin, kick, twirl and leap around the circle. The goal is to look as if they are floating.
On Sunday, I watched the Grand Entry, where war vets lead a procession of all the competitors, then settled in under the blazing sun to cheer on the dancers. Then it was time to peruse the vendors tents full of moccasins, dreamcatchers, animal hides and so much more.
No pow wow is complete without an Indian taco (yes, I know, a politically incorrect name, but that’s what they call it). Fry bread is the base, topped with chili, shredded Cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, and sour cream. Delicious!

I can now tick off a place on my bucket list! Shaped like a fish hook, the Iles de la Madeleine are part of Quebec, but closer to Prince Edward Island. I flew in from Quebec City and it took 2.5 hours. The other option is to drive to Prince Edward Island and take a five-hour ferry from Souris. In the summer there is also a St. Lawrence cruise option.
Since these islands are known as the lobster capital of Quebec, I was determined to enjoy some of the bright red crustaceans, along with the amazing crab and other seafood that is so plentiful here.
Lunch at Vieux Couvent in Havre-aux-Maisons was mussels – fat and sweet. Lucky me, I stayed one night in this gorgeous place, in Mother Superior’s room! A former convent, Domaine du Vieux Couvent offers spectacular views of the sea and the charm of a historical building. There are 11 rooms in the old convent and six apartments in the presbytery.

We drove to Old Harry Beach where a guide from Auberge La Salicorne showed us the marvelous, but dangerous beach (strong currents), named by National Geographic magazine as one of the best in the world.
Dinner at Auberge La Salicorne was crab cakes. Delicious!
Got up at 3:30 a.m. to see the fishermen take off from Grande-Entrée port, the lobster capital of Quebec since 1994. Basque fishermen started coming to the area in the 16th century and Scots settled on the island at the end of the 18th century. Today there are French and English communities on the islands and boats are named in French or English, often for the owner’s children. I liked the one called Little John.
FOOD DAY!
Havre-aux-Maisons…
At Fromagerie Pied-du-Vent’s economuseum we tasted delicious soft, creamy cheeses – Pied-de-Vent is a raw-milk cheese with a lightly washed rind. Could see the cheesemaker through glass, and read all about the ancient breed of dairy cattle that produces the milk for the cheese.
At Le Fumoir d’Antan we tasted smoked herring and got a demonstration of how the fish is smoked the old fashioned way.
Verrerie La Meduse was a glass blowing studio where Sophie Bourgeouis and Catherine Chevrier-Turbide showed us how thier delicate glass objects are made. Workshops are available, but we just watched a demo and admired the lovely items for sale – jellyfish paper weights, whimsical fish keychains and glass lightshades.
Gourmande de Nature is where you can get hands-on cooking lessons that feature local products. We had an amazing lobster session with owner/chef Johanne Vigneau (right), who also owns Table des Roy restaurant (finest dining in the Iles de la Madeleine), and her colleague Évangeline Gaudet (left). The space was light and airy, filled with condiments and tasty treats for sale as well as a gorgeous test kitchen. We learned how she uses every bit of the lobster, including boiling the shell for her amazing bisque.
Had a tasting at À l’Abri de la Tempête microbrewery where unique brews included a smoked malt using locally grown barley. Other ingredients in the line include wildflowers, algae, and fresh herbs.
Dinner was an amazing tasting menu at Table des Roy Restaurant. Owner chef Johanne Vigneau and colleague Évangeline Gaudet outdid themselves. Johanne’s nephew Sebastian Vigneault (at the back) made sure the service was impeccable.
Another highlight was the Musee de la Mere. Walk through the front door and above you hangs a whale skeleton. Our guide, Michel Boudreau, was very animated and funny. He was used to working with kids, which was just fine with our group!
Lunch was at Café de la Grave where I tasted the seal poutine. Surprisingly unsalty, but chewy. Who knew? Located in a former general store built around 1865 it was warm and cozy and we even had the pleasure of a little piano music!
I walked around the little main street and saw a jeweler who polished local stones for his creations. I also a souvenir shop that along with requisite maritime souvenirs had hand knitted socks and touques.
At the Artisans du Sable, part of the Economusee network, we perused a multitude of sand sculptures – very unique.
Our dinner that night was at Auberge chez Denis a Francois, the highlight being a crab avocado salad that was superb.
Our final night was at Auberge Havre-sur-Mer. I loved this place! A heavenly perch over a beach and perfect for relaxing on the balcony. I even had a soak in the hot tub, overlooking the sea.
Before leaving the islands, we had lunch at Accents Resto Bistro of Château Madelinot Hotel. I’d advise having the lobster roll. It was the wrong time of year for us, but the hotel offers packages including a helicopter excursion to the nearby ice floes in February to mid-March. This is where you can see cuddly white seal pups and their sleek dark mommas nearby.
What a wonderful hidden treasure the Iles de la Madeleine are. Not easy to get to, but definitely worth it.

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Here’s a list I did for USA Today’s 10Best list on some of Canada’s most fantastic art galleries. We have a lot to choose from, but I think these are the best, most accessible and diverse public offerings this country has to offer. Plus, the Charlevoix area is such an artistic hub, I had to include it!

This coverage of Swazi music by CNN is great. Check it out!

The city of furry love! I felt it when I lived there and took my dog to a weekly Yappy Hour in Fairmont Park. Fun.

Just got this press release in and it is so great, I thought I’d share it. Next trip to Philly, the pooch is coming!

PHILADELPHIA, September 29, 2016 — Pet lovers are crazy about their animal companions—and, according to the Canadian Veterinary Medical Association, Canadians spend nearly $6.6 billion a year in Canada on pet services and accoutrements to prove it. For those who love to spoil their pet but hate to leave him behind while travelling, the Philadelphia region proves to be the “purr-fect” getaway. Pet-friendly hotels, restaurants, shops and parks welcome visitors and their animals, so it’s easy to bring furry friends along for the ride.

Four-“Bone” Hotels:

Delaware County’s Brandywine River Hotel welcomes dogs in pet-friendly rooms for a $25-per-dog-per-night fee for those 25 pounds or lighter and a $45 fee for bigger pooches. Dogs must be crated when guests are not in the room.
Just northwest of Center City, amid a lively business district, the historic Chestnut Hill Hotel accepts any-sized canine guests with a signed waiver and an owner cell phone number.
Pet lovers can spend the night at Kimpton’s Hotel Monaco Philadelphia at no extra charge for their furry friends. There is no limit on the number of pets or type of pet, nor a restriction on size or weight; however, guests must sign a waiver of liability. All visitors receive a Very Important Pet (VIP) gift in the room. Food bowls, beds and leashes are also provided.
Hotel Palomar Philadelphia welcomes pets of all kinds, with no limit on size or weight. Animals are offered a VIP amenity upon arrival and bowls and beds in the room, as well as leashes and plastic bags. Pet sitting, walking and grooming services can be arranged via the Department of Pet Relations; the staff can also offer advice about nearby parks and pet-friendly dining.
Animals get the royal treatment at the Loews Philadelphia Hotel with its Loews Loves Pets program and VIP menu of services, as well as treats upon check-in. Not only does the hotel provide dogs and cats with loaner beds, bowls, litter boxes, leashes and collars, but they also offer a map of dog-walking routes, veterinarians, pet shops and other resources. The cost is $35 per reservation (two pets maximum per room), with pet-friendly rooms located on the 10th floor.
Dogs are welcome to spend the night at the Franklin Hotel at Independence Park under the following conditions: Fido must weigh 25 pounds or less, and hotel guests must supply a credit card number in case of incidentals. A non-refundable cleaning fee of $50 per visit applies.
The Residence Inn Center City welcomes pets, with no size or weight restrictions. The property does require that owners keep pets leashed while on the premises. Guests pay a $250 non-refundable fee to cover the cost of an outside cleaning service.
At The Rittenhouse, cats and dogs of all shapes and sizes are invited to stay, and they receive water, food bowls and treats upon arrival. A $150 nonrefundable pet fee applies per room. While pets cannot be left unattended, the concierge is happy to make arrangements for a sitter.
Dogs can put on the ritz at The Ritz-Carlton, Philadelphia, where pups under 30 pounds are welcomed with water bowls, toys, treats and collars—all free of charge. The hotel asks guests for advance notice of a pet’s arrival. While on the premises, animals must be accompanied by their human companions at all times. Dogs can make themselves right at home for a non-refundable fee of $250 per pet, per reservation.
The Sheraton Philadelphia Downtown Hotel rolls out welcome mats to well-behaved canine guests weighing less than 50 pounds for a $50 nonrefundable fee. The hotel requests that owners accompany their dogs at all times.
The Sheraton Philadelphia Society Hill Hotel welcomes dogs up to 40 pounds (a deposit may apply) and simply asks that guests sign a waiver stating that the dog will not be left alone. Conveniently located close to walking paths along the Delaware River Waterfront, the Historic Philadelphia property offers Suite Sleeper dog beds by request.
Dogs weighing up to 80 pounds can spend the night at the Sheraton Philadelphia University City Hotel at no extra charge. The hotel requests that canine guests not be left unattended during their stay.
The Sofitel Philadelphia stays true to its French roots by welcoming pets weighing less than 30 pounds to stay for a refundable incidentals fee of $300. Bowls, beds, treats and a room-service pet menu are also available. There is a policy of no more than one pet per room, and pets must be crated when unattended.

Chow Time:

High Street on Market, Continental Restaurant and Martini Bar and Red Owl Tavern are just three of the many Historic Philadelphia restaurants within a short distance to Independence Hall—and with outdoor seating open to leashed pets.
In trendy Fishtown, pups and their people have a howling good time along Frankford Avenue at a variety of establishments with outdoor seating, including Heffe Tacos, Root, Café La Maude and Johnny Brenda’s.
West of Center City, dogs and their owners stroll along Manayunk’s Main Street, which is lined with cafes, boutiques and galleries. Jake’s and Cooper’s Wine Bar, Winnie’s Le Bus Manayunk and Manayunk Tavern are just three of the eateries with a range of casual cuisine for humans—and bowls of water for Fido.
Along East Passyunk Avenue, South Philly’s restaurant row, Italian eateries Paradiso Restaurant and Wine Bar and Le Virtù, as well as sushi spot Izumi, dim-sum destination Bing Bing and Mexican hangout Cantina Los Caballitos offer outdoor seating and tableside water bowls for pets.
At Rouge and Parc, right across from upscale and dog-friendly Rittenhouse Square, four-legged friends enjoy bowls of water and treats, while their human companions indulge in upscale bistro fare.
At West Chester’s Teca, pets belly up to the water bowl outside along busy Gay Street while owners enjoy tasty Italian fare.
Fairmount Park’s heaven for dogs and humans alike, Valley Green Inn is a way station for dog walkers, bikers and pet owners, with plenty of outdoor seating available. Water bowls are available for dogs.
There’s room for more than just students in University City, home to the University of Pennsylvania and Drexel University. Pet owners can dine outside at the White Dog Café and score a bowl of water for their pooch.

See Spot Shop:

South Philadelphia’s Amelie’s Bark Shop is part all-natural pet treat bakery and part high-end pet products shop. Hand-crocheted dog sweaters, catnip sushi toys and homemade peanut butter squirrel treats are among the standouts of this specialty pet supplier.
Bonejour Pet Supply & Dog Wash in Old City caters to dogs and cats with healthy treats and chews, quality toys and a wall full of fashions. The shop also carries practical collars, harnesses, leashes, carrying cases and natural and holistic foods and remedies. Pet bathing services come full-service or at a do-it-yourself station. For a fee, the boutique offers delivery of pet food and cat litter within Philadelphia city limits.
Concord Pet Foods & Supplies has been serving Chester County pets and their owners since 1981. Carrying 40 brands of premium pet foods, as well as beds, toys and crates, the store prides itself on having “everything your pet needs.”
With eight locations around town and one in the suburbs, Doggie Style proves pet loving is good business. The shops provide high-quality products and services, plus grooming services and pet adoptions. The company recently launched an online store offering Center City residents same-day delivery.
For eco-friendly pet shampoos and coat treatments, owners head to Duross & Langel, a vegan soap maker-meets-hair salon in Philadelphia’s Washington Square West neighbourhood.
At sister stores Fairmount Pet Shoppe and Baltimore Pet Shoppe, all-natural pet food and supplies (litter, toys, grooming tools, apparel) aren’t all that’s on display: The jam-packed shops also play host to adoptable cats, who can usually be founding catching a snooze in the stores’ street-facing windows.
Made with all-natural, human-grade ingredients, bakery-fresh dog treats and cakes tempt canine customers at Just Dogs and Cats. The cozy, family-owned pet shop also stocks dog and cat toys, collars, leashes and apparel, plus a smattering of gifts for pet lovers.
Street Tails Animal Rescue is a dog adoption center in Northern Liberties. Also on-site: Thrift for Tails, Philly’s first secondhand pet shop, stocks gently used pet items, and proceeds benefit the rescue.
For hipster and non-hipster pets alike, Rittenhouse Pet Supply offers fun and fashionable sweaters, collars and leashes, as well as premium dog and cat food that can be home delivered in close proximity to the store. Cats are also available for adoption.

Pooch Playtime:

Chester County is known for its open spaces, including French Creek State Park, with nearly 7,800 acres of well-marked hiking trails (35 miles of trails within the creek alone), campgrounds and two lakes—truly a canine paradise. Leashed dogs are also welcome at Hopewell Furnace National Historic Site, a restored iron plantation on 848 acres with 12 miles of hiking trails.
The Front & Chestnut Dog Park (also known as I-95 Park) is enclosed with short fences and attracts some informal romping.
In Delaware County, dogs on leashes can roam throughout the Haverford College campus, a beautiful setting with nature trails and a duck pond, while Smedley Park encompasses 120 pet-friendly acres of nature trials and picnic areas.
The two-mile Manayunk Towpath along the canal is ideal for dog walking. There are numerous access points along Main Street.
A relative newcomer to the dog park scene is Market Street Dog Run. While it’s an authentic fenced-in run (pavement without grass) versus a park, the views of the Ben Franklin Bridge and the Delaware River just might make this run one that visitors and their pooches want to hightail it to.
A community-run dog park in Fishtown where all dogs are welcome, Palmer Doggie Depot is so warm and accepting that even a pet pig is known to frequent it.
Yoga enthusiasts can downward dog with their beloved, leashed pooch during free yoga sessions on the Delaware waterfront at Race Street Pier from April through October.
Rittenhouse Square is where all the downtown dogs go to sniff and be seen. Sunbathers, picnickers and pups share the lawn space in peace.
The Schuylkill River Park Dog Run is constructed from K9 grass, a revolutionary turf made specifically for dogs. It offers small and large runs with frost-free water fountains and separate entrances.
Between the Washington Square West and Bella Vista neighbourhoods, the member-run Seger Dog Park is a smaller dog park and completely enclosed.
Leashed pets are welcome at Valley Forge National Historical Park, a 3,500-acre park (with 30 miles of trails) that was home to Washington’s winter encampment in 1777. Washington and his troops first visited the site of Fort Washington State Park, where walking paths and 3.5 miles of hiking trails are open to leashed pets.

Quebec Tourism has made one of the best promotional videos I’ve seen in a long time. Sweet!

Fabulous shot of Sand Hill Cranes by my friend travel writer/photographer Karin Leperi. This was taken in Bosque del Apache, USA last year. She’s in Nebraska right now getting ready for the Sand Hill Cranes migration stop as they head north for the summer.
Beautiful!