Tag Archives: Hanoi

The plush Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi is a standout of French colonial architecture and was a favourite place of mine to have an afternoon coffee, evening cocktail by the pool or special birthday dinner. Why? It boasts a rich history and many cultural icons have stayed and created literary works here over the years. Designed by architects André Ducamp and Gustave-Émile Dumoutier, the hotel’s doors opened in 1901. After a secret marriage in Shanghai in 1936, Charlie Chaplin spent his honeymoon here with one of Hollywood’s famous female stars, Paulette Goddard. The hotel even named a suite in Chaplin’s honour.Vintage Citroens that are available to guests for city jaunts.
Celebrated British authur Somerset Maugham wrote The Gentleman in the Parlour about his observations in Indochine and Graham Greene wrote The Quiet American. Greene stayed at the hotel in 1951 as a war correspondent and his experiences discovering “the third force” (covert support of the CIA) inspired him to write a novel that illuminated Vietnam’s independence struggles and the United States’ interference. A very insightful read about how the seeds of the Vietnam War were sown. Both Maugham and Greene also have hotel suites named after them, as well.
In the 1960s, a bomb shelter was built in the basement and in 1972, during the Vietnam war, actress and anti-war activist Jane Fonda stayed here, as did singer/songwriter Joan Baez. On her return from Vietnam in 1973, Baez released the album, Where Are You Now, My Son? that includes the air-raid sirens and dropping bombs she heard outside. Baez has give up singing for painting and on a trip to Hanoi in 2013 she stayed at the hotel and painted a portrait of a young Vietnamese boy which is now hanging in the lobby. Here’s a shot I took from the Metropole website of Baez completing the painting.
More recently, in 2009, the hotel named its new restaurant Angelina after actress and guest Angelina Jolie whose son Pax was adopted from an orphanage in Vietnam. Other movers and shakers who have stayed here include Mark Zuckerberg, Vladimir Putin and Angela Merkel.
And me? Well, I like to eat, drink and get inspired here, especially on the gorgeous terrace.

When I lived in Hanoi, I had an apartment in the quiet enclave of Truc Bach. It is on tiny Truc Bach Lake, a diked off portion of Tay Ho Lake. I was a little shocked to learn this is where the late Senator John McCain landed when he was shot down during the Vietnam War (known here as the American War), in 1967. Searching the internet I learned that US Navy aviator John McCain was shot down by anti-aircraft missile on a mission against a Hanoi powerplant and parachuted wounded into Truc Bach Lake, nearly drowning. He was dragged out of the water and beaten by city residents who were angry at having seen the area razed by previous U.S. attacks. He was later taken away as a prisoner of war. Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons.
I came upon a monument marking his downing called Tchen Sney Ma Can on the western shore of the lake. Beside the depiction of a downed airman, there’s an inscrption in Vietnamese saying, “On Oct 26, 1967, at Truc Bach Lake, the military and people of Hanoi arrested Major John Sidney McCain, a pilot of the American Navy’s air force.”This shot (courtesy the U.S. Defense website) is of Defense Secretary Ash’s visit to Hanoi in 2015.
Apprently, when McCain made a trip to Vietnam in 1985, he returned to this spot. A lot has changed since his horrible experience. Most people in Vietnam are under the age of 30 and don’t even know who he was. Plus, the Truc Bach and Tay Ho area is now filled will posh hotels including the Sofitel, the Hanoi Club and the Sheraton. It’s a very desirable neighbourhood.
FAST FACTS
1) Truc Bach was separtated from Tay Ho by the construction of a dike in the 17th century, allowing inhabitants to fish. Today, it is extremely polluted although there are still lots of fishermen and nets to be seen. I would advise against eating anything caught here.
2) In the 1700s, Truc Lam Palace was constructed on the lake shore. It first served as a pleasure palace housing concubines, but was later converted in to a prison for royal concubines found guilty of crime. The silk they produced became known as ‘Bamboo Village’ Silk and was famous for its beauty. At the time, the area was known also for its crafters of bamboo blinds.
3) According to history, during the Le Dynasty (1428 – 1527), people of the 5 villages Dong Mai, Chau My, Long Thuong, Dien Tien and Dao Vien (from Hung Yen and Bac Ninh provinces), who were skillful at bronze casting, migrated to the capital to establish a casting workshop for business. They settled in the Truc Bach area and set up a new village called Ngu Xa to remember their five original villages. Afterwards they reorganized into a separate professional guild called Ngu Xa bronze-casting guild. Nowadays Ngu Xa Street is still there to the east of the Truc Bach Lake, in Ba Dinh District. There’s a really interesting article that gives more detail on the bronze casters there who are still practicing their craft by Vu Thu Ha in the Viet Nam News.

In Hanoi, the biggest holiday of the year is Tet, celebrating the Lunar New Year. Tet usually falls around late January/early February and has to be the biggest season for flower sellers, especially at Quang Ba Flower Market, in Tay Ho, near where I lived. I noticed marumi kumquat plants were in as high demand as evergreen trees at Christmas in the West. A couple of weeks before Tet, the streets are crowded with motor scooters burdened with bushy green pyramids covered in with small orange fruit. Although the fruit looks like a mandarin orange, it is sour (the peel is the sweetest part) and few people eat them. The kumquat tree symbolizes gold, wealth, unity and perfection.  So the selection on each tree purchased is not taken lightly. The marumi kumquat is a tree with five characteristics that must be considered when buying – fruit, flowers, leaves, branches and roots. Combined, they symbolize wealth and happiness for the new year. Tips for choosing a good plant? The tree must have both ripe and green fruit, mature leaves and new buds. If it has all these, the family will enjoy wealth and luck in the new year.
Another popular item at the nursery is peach trees since its flowers blossom in spring – sometimes even during Tet holidays, but it was too cold for this during my time there. Vietnamese believe this symbolizes a strong vitality and brave heart. The colour of the flowers is important, too. In Hanoi, the dark pink blossom is favoured, showing the love and joy spread among people in this unique time of the year.

Hectic Hanoi is full of history and while living there I found a little slice of peace on the grounds of the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long. Bonsai plants and random buildings were scattered throughout the complex’s almost 20 hectares. Plus, I was able to examine all sorts of architectural relics that had been uncovered in the ongoing excavations. There isn’t a lot of explanation available in English onsite, so I did a bit of my own digging. According to Wikipedia, the royal enclosure was first built during the Lý dynasty (1010) and subsequently expanded by the Trần, Lê and finally the Nguyễn dynasty. It remained the seat of the Vietnamese court until 1810, when the Nguyễn dynasty chose to move the capital to Huế. French soldiers taking photos on the steps of Kinh Thien Palace during the encamping period here. (Taken by Doctor Charles – Edouard Hocquard during 1884 -1885)
The royal palaces and most of the structures in Thăng Long were in varying states of disrepair by the late 19th century with the upheaval of the French conquest of Hanoi. By the 20th century many of the remaining structures were torn down. Excavations began in the 21st century and in 2004 the site was opened to the public. The central sector of the imperial citadel was listed in UNESCO’s World Heritage Site on July 31, 2010.
The few remaining structures within the royal compound are the Doan Mon gate, marking the southern entrance to the royal palace, the Flag Tower, the steps of Kinh Thiên Palace and the Hậu Lâu (Princess’ Palace). Thus far only a small fraction of Thăng Long has been excavated.
Perhaps the most iconic of the remaining structures is the Flag Tower. Rising to a height of 33.4 m (41 m with the flag), it is frequently used as a symbol of the city. Built in 1812 during the Nguyễn dynasty, the tower, unlike many other structures in Hanoi, was spared during the French colonial rule (1885–1954) as it was used as a military post.
If you visit during graduation season, October-November, you’ll get a chance to see the students who come to have their pictures taken. I loved seeing the young women in their gorgeous traditional garb, called ao dai.I was quite intrigued with the D67 tunnel and house, built in 1967 and found north of Kinh Thien hall. From 1954 to 1975, the North Vietnamese military command (Vietnam People’s Army) under General Giap, had its underground headquarters here.
A connecting underground tunnel allowed for emergency evacuation in case of an attack. It was eerie to wander the halls and see the furniture and communications equipment used in the fight against the South and the United States.
One of the most restful spots in the Citadel is Hau Lau, also known as the Princess’ Palace. Originally built in 1821 during the Nguyen Dynasty for the queen and princess, it was later the residence of imperial concubines. It is a mish mash architectural styles, since the French rebuilt it, but I loved the Vietnamese roof with its crescent-like bladed corners. Hardly anyone comes here, so it’s a perfect place to chill and enjoy the gardens.